How ID influenced fashion photography

As the iconic magazine turns 40, we examine how ID’亚文化的怀抱和时尚摄影界的日常回响

Terry 和 Tricia Jones launched ID in 1980 in the high tide of post-punk 和 new wave, 和 these countercultural roots imbued the magazine from the outset. Terry was coming from the comparatively glossy world of British Vogue where he brought an unconventional twist to the magazine in his time as art director between 1972-1977, including the ‘green jelly’ cover 威利·克里斯蒂(Willie Christie)拍摄的照片’阻止它的最大努力。  

“作为70年代英国《 Vogue》的艺术总监,特里·琼斯(Terry Jones)认为,需要发行一本涉及街头风格,朋克和流行文化等新概念的出版物,而这些出版物却被诸如《 Vogue》,” explains 亚当·默里(Adam Murray),中央圣马丁学院时尚传播学硕士:时尚形象和文学学士学位时尚传播与推广课程的负责人。 “与大多数优秀杂志一样,它首先被用来回应其他杂志所忽略的内容–有需要。”  

该杂志诞生于一年,在英国出版界也看到了其他杂志的出现(当然,包括 创意评论),例如1991年关闭的《闪电战》(Blitz)和2004年关闭之前的《脸》(The Face) 2019复兴. 尽管这三类时尚出版物经常被混在一起,但由牛津大学的两位毕业生创立的闪电战(Blitz)被认为更高级,而《脸》(The Face)则显得更加精致“更高的预算,生产和完成”根据UWE时尚传播讲师Dean Davies的说法。“i-D’第一个问题是难以置信的DIY,真实地反映了它诞生的朋克时代,” he adds, noting ID’立即持续关注“街头文化与时尚”作为主要区别

上图:特里·琼斯(Terry Jones)’ archival collages from the 40th Anniversary Issue, photographed by Emma Lewis. Above: the cover of the first issue of ID magazine in 1980